First of all, you have to have the right size halter and collars.  I've seen some people use Lamb halter's successfully, but I don't recommend them.  Lambs have longer muzzles and some of the lamb halters pinch the nose's of goats.  Goat halters come in several sizes from pygmy/kid size to large Buck size and everything in between.  It's a lot easier to start training a kid than an adult goat.  The smaller they are the easier it is to get control.  Once you get the halter on, snap on your 6 ft. lead/leash.   Your goat will buck, try to get away, and even
sit down and refuse to walk.  No amount of tugging will encourage him/her to get up and go.  PLEASE, DO NOT
drag your goat and think it will want to walk with you eventually.  You're going to have to hands on, lift up the
rear of your goat, the front end of your goat, whichever is laying on the ground and keep encouraging it
to come along with you.  Treats can be given.  Once they're on their feet you may have to do some hard
pulling to get him to walk.  Give a treat every few feet letting him know he's doing a good job.  If  he 
lays down you have to lift him up again.. then give another treat onces he's back on his feet.  Goats are not
stupid, they figure out what works to get them a treat and a kind pat.  Eventually, all your inner frustrations
will go away because..  he gets it and will joyfully trot and run along with you.   Moving onto the collar will be
just as much...  "fun."    In fact, I will talk about collar training next blog.
 


Comments


Comments are closed.

    Author

    Jean & Lindsay McDonald  
    rural Templeton

    Archives

    February 2013
    July 2012
    June 2012
    May 2012
    March 2012
    February 2012
    January 2012
    December 2011
    November 2011